Check if this trip is right for you

This trip is very different to other Great Walks – it’s a paddle, not a walk. Think carefully about if it’s right for you. To do the Whanganui Journey safely without a guide, you should:

• be a confident swimmer
• have experience in a canoe
• be fit enough to paddle for 6 to 7 hours in a day
• be over the age of 10
• have at least two people in your group, plus enough adults to look after any children and teens if something goes wrong.

If you aren’t an experienced canoe user or are travelling alone, book a guided trip instead.

If you can’t swim or aren’t fit enough, then this isn’t the trip for you. There are lots of other great adventures in Whanganui National Park.

Highlights

• Enjoy the Wanganui River in a canoe or kayak.
• Take a break from the water on a short walk to the Bridge to Nowhere.
• Be immersed in culture and history with a unique stay at Tieke Kainga, the only DOC hut that is also used as a marae.

Watch videos of the Whanganui Journey

Distances between campsites and huts

• Cherry Grove, Taumarunui to Ohinepane campsite — 22 km
• Ohinepane to Poukaria campsite — 14 km
• Poukaria to Maharanui campsite — 17 km
• Maharanui to Whakahoro campsite and Whakahoro Bunkroom— 4 km
• Whakahoro to Mangapapa campsite — 11 km
• Mangapapa to Ohauora campsite — 16 km
• Ohauora to John Coull Hut — 10.5 km
• John Coull Hut to Mangawaiiti campsite — 9.5 km
• Mangawaiiti to Mangapurua campsite — 9 km
• Mangapurua to Tīeke Kāinga — 10.5 km
• Tieke to Ngaporo campsite — 12.5 km
• Ngaporo to Pipiriki — 9 km

Trip options

The 145 kilometre river journey from Taumarunui to Pipiriki takes an average 5 days to complete by canoe. A shorter 3 day journey from Whakahoro to Pipiriki is also possible.

Each trip requires a good level of fitness and confidence in using a canoe.

For a 5 day / 4 night trip:

• Day 1 and 2 – Taumarunui to Whakahoro
• Day 3 – Whakahoro to John Coull Hut
• Day 4 – John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga
• Day 5 – Tīeke Kāinga to Pīpīriki

Taumarunui to Whakahoro

Distance: 57 km

Access points are at Ngāhuinga (Cherry Grove) in Taumarunui or further downstream at Ōhinepane (accessed from River Road SH43).

Travelling the upper reaches of the Whanganui River, you’ll pass through a mixture of farmland and patches of native bush. You’ll be in for some excitement as you shoot down rapids on this section of the river.

Camp beside the river at Ōhinepane, Poukaria or Maharanui campsites or stay in a campsite or bunkhouse at Whakahoro. From here, you get the feeling of venturing into the heart of a rich and rugged landscape.

Whakahoro to John Coull Hut

Distance: 37.5 km

Many begin their river journey here – the scenic middle reaches of the river, featuring numerous waterfalls after heavy rain. Past Mangapapa Campsite, take a long loop around the Kirikiriroa Peninsula, pass the Tarepokiore (whirlpool) rapid and then the large overhang known as Tamatea’s Cave.

Please do not enter the cave as it is wāhi tapu (a sacred place). Ōtaihanga Reach leads you to your overnight stop at John Coull and Campsite and John Coull Campsite.

You may see long-tailed bats fluttering overhead at dusk.

John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga

Distance: 29 km

On this section, follow the river as it meanders through bush-covered hills, passing the mouths of the Tāngārākau and Whangamōmona rivers where they join the Whanganui. Perched high above the river, Manga-wai-iti is an attractive spot to camp or stop for lunch.

Continue your trip downstream to Tīeke Kāinga where you can examine the intricately carved pou whenua and learn about the history of Tīeke and the tikanga (protocol) of the marae.

Tīeke Kāinga information and tikanga (protocol).

Alternative accommodation option 

For a more secluded night’s sleep, stay at Puketotara Hut. Opposite Tieke Kainga, this 1 hr and 30 min track takes you high up on the Matemateaonga Range where you will spend the night in podocarp splendour, with expansive views of the Whanganui River, the bush clad hills of Whanganui National Park and the volcanoes of the Central Plateau.

Side trip: Bridge to Nowhere

At Mangapurua Landing, where the old riverboats used to tie up, hop out of your canoe and take the 40-minute (one way) Bridge to Nowhere Walk to this poignant reminder of the Mangapurua Valley farm settlement, carved out of the bush and then abandoned between the two World Wars.

Exercise caution when disembarking and embarking. The Landing can become very congested with canoes and boats. The rock surface is very slippery when wet.

Look out for cyclists – the track is also part of the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail.

Tīeke Kāinga to Pīpīriki

Distance: 21.5 km

You’ll pass through the scenic gorge of the Manganui o te Ao River where it enters the Whanganui after its journey from the slopes of Mount Ruapehu. Ngāporo and Autapu rapids can provide plenty of excitement and perhaps a cool dip on a hot day.

More exotic trees and farmland indicate you are getting close to Pīpīriki. Pass an eel weir on your left, shoot the Paparoa rapid and you will see the boat ramp below Pīpīriki village up ahead.

Location of the Whanganui Journey

Traditional entry or exit points for the Whanganui Journey are off SH4 at:

• Taumarunui
• Ōhinepane - access from Taumarunui
• Whakahoro - access from Raurimu or Ōwhango
• Pīpīriki access from Raetihi or Whanganui

Equipment hire, services, food and transport can be found in Taumarunui, Whanganui, Raetihi, Ōhakune and National Park Village.

Te Awa Tupua – a living being

DOC encourages visitors on the awa to familiarise themselves with Te Awa Tupua - The Whanganui River – a living being that nourishes and sustains the land and the people both physically and spiritually from the Mountains to the Sea.  

Before you go

To have a safe and enjoyable Whanganui Journey, you need to prepare and pack the right gear. You cannot turn back once you start.

Take these important steps before you start the Whanganui Journey.

• Understand how to use your canoe. Make sure you know how to pack it, how to navigate rapids and what to do if you fall out. This will help keep you safe on the river.
• Carry a distress beacon. Once on the Whanganui Awa (river), there is no cell phone reception and your mobile will not work. There is only emergency communication available at John Coull Hut and Tīeke Marae/Kāinga.
  Carrying a distress beacon means you can signal for help if you need it.
  More about distress beacons.

You should also:

• check the weather before you go. Do not canoe if the river is flooding, rising, or predicted to flood.
  Weather forecast for Whanganui National Park.
• pack plenty of warm clothes and extra food. It can be very cold and you need to be ready to stay an extra night if the river rises.
  What to take on the Whanganui Journey.
• wear bright clothing, so you’re more visible to boats
• pack what you need to boil or treat water –the water at huts and campsites may not be treated and safe to drink
• avoid alcohol use or smoking, for your safety and out of respect for the river
• pack antihistamines if you’re allergic to wasps – they’re especially common from January to May.

When you're on the river

Stay safe by always wearing a life jacket. If you fall out, it could save your life.

Stay on the true right whenever possible. The true right is the right hand side when facing downstream.

Be aware of jet boats and know what to do. This is essential for a safe trip.

When a jet boat approaches:

1. Move to the right hand side of the river, unless you’re already close to the other side. If you’re close to the left, stick to the left – don’t paddle across the path of the approaching boat
2. Stop or back-paddle, so the jet boat can get away from you as quickly as possible
3. Turn at right angle to the wake – this reduces how bumpy it will feel
   
   

Crafts travelling up river must give way to crafts travelling down the river. However, jet boats in rapids cannot slow down or stop.

Keep an eye on the weather and the river. If the river starts rising or is in flood, stay at your campground or hut until the river levels drop. You won’t be charged for staying an extra night due to high river levels. Rivers can rise overnight even if it’s not raining where you are, so tie your canoe up securely.

Leave enough time to reach your next hut or campsite in daylight. It is hard to find them in the dark. Allow extra time if it’s windy as canoeing into the wind can be slow and tiring.

More ways to stay safe in the outdoors.

Respect nature and culture

Many sites are of high cultural significance – please respect them. Avoid alcohol use while on the Awa or at Tīeke Marae/Kāinga.

Protect nature while on the Whanganui Journey by:

• camping only at designated camp sites
• taking all your rubbish away with you
• following all fire restrictions and not lighting any open fires.
• using the toilets provided
• keeping soap and detergents out of the water
• leaving dogs or any other animals at home
• not hunting within the river trench
• leaving native plants and animals alone – enjoy them from afar.

Huts on the Whanganui Journey don't have toilet paper. Remember to take this with you.

Equipment unique to Whanganui Journey

These items can be hired as a package from local suppliers.

• Life-jacket
• Kayak or Canadian canoe
• Paddle/s – include a spare
• Plastic drums or equivalent for storing food, dry clothes and personal equipment
• Dry bags

Optional

• Swimwear
• Sandals or aqua shoes for walking in water

Nature and conservation

The land surrounding the river is only about one million years old. Formed of soft sandstone and mudstone (papa) from the ocean-bed, it has been eroded by water to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, sheer papa cliffs and waterfalls.

Over this land has grown a broadleaf-podocarp forest of rata, rewarewa, rimu, tawa, kamahi and kowhai with beech dominant on the ridge tops. Tree ferns and plants that cling to the steep riverbanks are very distinctive.

Bird species such as kereru (native pigeon), tiwaiwaka (fantail), tui, toutouwai (robin), riroriro (grey warbler) and miromiro (tomtit) are often seen and heard. The call of the brown kiwi can often be heard at night. The river is rich in eels, lamprey, species of galaxiid (a group of native fish species including whitebait and kokopu), koura (freshwater crayfish) and black flounder.

History and culture

Māori cultivated the sheltered terraces and built elaborate eel weirs along river channels where eels and lamprey were known to converge. Every bend of the river had kaitiaki (guardian) which controlled the mauri (life force) of that place. The mana (prestige) of a settlement depended upon the way in which food supplies and living areas were looked after for the benefit of the tribe and visitors.

Te Atihaunui, a Paparangi people, settled the valley from 1100 AD. In time the river became linked by a series of pa which were later called 'the plaited fibres of Hinengakau'.

The first major European influence arrived with missionaries in the 1840s. In 1891 a regular riverboat service began carrying passengers, mail and freight to the European settlers on the river between Taumarunui and Pipiriki and thriving tourist trade soon began between Mt Ruapehu and Wanganui.

The main riverboat trade ceased in the 1920s due to better roads, a main trunk railway and the development of other tourist attractions around the country, although riverboats were still operating in the late 1950s.

From May to September, there are often high river levels, very cold water and wet weather – only go if you are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.

Expect challenging conditions

The winter environment in Whanganui National Park is very cold and wet, with short daylight hours. The river level is much higher than in summer and the water is very cold.

Be totally self-sufficient and experienced

The Whanganui River journey should only be attempted out of the Great Walks season by people who are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.

You will need to be independent and self-sufficient, have a full understanding of the safety risks and be prepared for extremely cold conditions. Always carry a distress beacon.

Hut facilities are reduced

Gas cookers are not provided – you need to bring your own cooking stove. There are no hut rangers and only limited water. Huts are not stocked with firewood.

Fees and bookings

Outside of the Great Walks season, hut fees are reduced and bookings are not required. Full information can be found in the fees and booking section for this track.