From Tōtaranui the Coast Track wanders south through tall, airy forests of kānuka. It is only a few minutes to Skinner Point where there is a wonderful view of Tōtaranui Beach and the coast south to Awaroa and Awaroa Head.
The 10-minute walk along Goat Bay beach can be a little tiresome when the tide is in and the sand is soft, but there is more than adequate reward in the panorama of rātā forest, sea-smoothed granite rock and noisy waves.
If it takes you about 20 minutes to get to Goat Bay, it will take you another 30, at most, to Waiharakeke.
Instead of forested hills, this pleasant beach runs back into a large swamp which is slowly reverting to kahikatea and pukatea forest. A century ago, Waiharakeke boasted a sawmill and a logging railway; now it is one of the coast’s quiet places.