Whanganui Journey
Located in Whanganui National Park in the Manawatu/Whanganui region
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Introduction
Explore the scenic Whanganui River by paddling down it through a landscape of remote hills and bush clad valleys. This trip is suitable for people with good fitness and confidence with a canoe.Bookings are open for the 2024/25 season.
87 or 145 km one way
Kayaking and canoeing
3 or 5 daysSeasonal restrictions
In the Great Walks season (1 October – 30 April)
Best time to experience the trip. Bookings are required for huts and campsites.
Outside the Great Walks season (1 May – 30 September)
Only attempt the trip at this time if you are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter. Bookings are not required - huts and campsites are first come, first served.
Dog access
Image gallery
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Canoers navigate through the choppy rapids Image: Charles Ranginui | Whanganui River Canoes ©
![Two people in a small canoe navigate through choppy rapids on the Whanganui River]( "Two people in a small canoe navigate through choppy rapids on the Whanganui River")
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Canoers on the Whanganui Journey Image: | DOC
![Canoers on the Whanganui Journey.]( "Canoers on the Whanganui Journey.")
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Be immersed in culture & history with a unique stay at Tieke Kainga Image: | DOC
![People at marae on the Whanganui River journey.]( "People at marae on the Whanganui River journey.")
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Campers at John Coull campsite Image: | DOC
![Campers at John Coull campsite.]( "Campers at John Coull campsite.")
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Canoers make their way through the rapids on the Whanganui journey Image: Charles Ranginui | Whanganui River Canoes ©
![Two people in a canoe navigate through a choppy brown river. They look like they're having fun.]( "Two people in a canoe navigate through a choppy brown river. They look like they're having fun.")
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Take a break from the water on a short walk to the Bridge to Nowhere Image: Robert Dickinson ©
![People on Bridge to Nowhere.]( "People on Bridge to Nowhere.")
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Canoer on the Whanganui Journey Image: | DOC
![Canoer on the Whanganui Journey]( "Canoer on the Whanganui Journey")
Video
May to end of September (winter season): The Whanganui River journey should only be attempted out of the Great Walks season by people who are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.
Check if this trip is right for you
This trip is very different to other Great Walks – it’s a paddle, not a walk. Think carefully about if it’s right for you. To do the Whanganui Journey safely without a guide, you should:
- be a confident swimmer
- have experience in a canoe
- be fit enough to paddle for 6 to 7 hours in a day
- be over the age of 10
- have at least two people in your group, plus enough adults to look after any children and teens if something goes wrong.
If you aren’t an experienced canoe user or are travelling alone, book a guided trip instead.
If you can’t swim or aren’t fit enough, then this isn’t the trip for you. There are lots of other great adventures in Whanganui National Park.
Highlights
- Enjoy the Wanganui River in a canoe or kayak.
- Take a break from the water on a short walk to the Bridge to Nowhere.
- Be immersed in culture and history with a unique stay at Tieke Kainga, the only DOC hut that is also used as a marae.
Watch videos of the Whanganui Journey
Distances between campsites and huts
- Cherry Grove, Taumarunui to Ohinepane campsite — 22 km
- Ohinepane to Poukaria campsite — 14 km
- Poukaria to Maharanui campsite — 17 km
- Maharanui to Whakahoro campsite and Whakahoro Bunkroom— 4 km
- Whakahoro to Mangapapa campsite — 11 km
- Mangapapa to Ohauora campsite — 16 km
- Ohauora to John Coull Hut — 10.5 km
- John Coull Hut to Mangawaiiti campsite — 9.5 km
- Mangawaiiti to Mangapurua campsite — 9 km
- Mangapurua to Tīeke Kāinga — 10.5 km
- Tieke to Ngaporo campsite — 12.5 km
- Ngaporo to Pipiriki — 9 km
Trip options
The 145 kilometre river journey from Taumarunui to Pipiriki takes an average 5 days to complete by canoe. A shorter 3 day journey from Whakahoro to Pipiriki is also possible.
Each trip requires a good level of fitness and confidence in using a canoe.
For a 5 day / 4 night trip:
- Day 1 and 2 – Taumarunui to Whakahoro
- Day 3 – Whakahoro to John Coull Hut
- Day 4 – John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga
- Day 5 – Tīeke Kāinga to Pīpīriki
Taumarunui to Whakahoro
Distance: 57 km
Access points are at Ngāhuinga (Cherry Grove) in Taumarunui or further downstream at Ōhinepane (accessed from River Road SH43).
Travelling the upper reaches of the Whanganui River, you’ll pass through a mixture of farmland and patches of native bush. You’ll be in for some excitement as you shoot down rapids on this section of the river.
Camp beside the river at Ōhinepane, Poukaria or Maharanui campsites or stay in a campsite or bunkhouse at Whakahoro. From here, you get the feeling of venturing into the heart of a rich and rugged landscape.
Whakahoro to John Coull Hut
Distance: 37.5 km
Many begin their river journey here – the scenic middle reaches of the river, featuring numerous waterfalls after heavy rain. Past Mangapapa Campsite, take a long loop around the Kirikiriroa Peninsula, pass the Tarepokiore (whirlpool) rapid and then the large overhang known as Tamatea’s Cave.
Please do not enter the cave as it is wāhi tapu (a sacred place). Ōtaihanga Reach leads you to your overnight stop at John Coull and Campsite and John Coull Campsite.
You may see long-tailed bats fluttering overhead at dusk.
John Coull Hut to Tīeke Kāinga
Distance: 29 km
On this section, follow the river as it meanders through bush-covered hills, passing the mouths of the Tāngārākau and Whangamōmona rivers where they join the Whanganui. Perched high above the river, Manga-wai-iti is an attractive spot to camp or stop for lunch.
Continue your trip downstream to Tīeke Kāinga where you can examine the intricately carved pou whenua and learn about the history of Tīeke and the tikanga (protocol) of the marae.
Tīeke Kāinga information and tikanga (protocol).
Alternative accommodation option
For a more secluded night’s sleep, stay at Puketotara Hut. Opposite Tieke Kainga, this 1 hr and 30 min track takes you high up on the Matemateaonga Range where you will spend the night in podocarp splendour, with expansive views of the Whanganui River, the bush clad hills of Whanganui National Park and the volcanoes of the Central Plateau.
Side trip: Bridge to Nowhere
At Mangapurua Landing, where the old riverboats used to tie up, hop out of your canoe and take the 40-minute (one way) Bridge to Nowhere Walk to this poignant reminder of the Mangapurua Valley farm settlement, carved out of the bush and then abandoned between the two World Wars.
Exercise caution when disembarking and embarking. The Landing can become very congested with canoes and boats. The rock surface is very slippery when wet.
Look out for cyclists – the track is also part of the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail.
Tīeke Kāinga to Pīpīriki
Distance: 21.5 km
You’ll pass through the scenic gorge of the Manganui o te Ao River where it enters the Whanganui after its journey from the slopes of Mount Ruapehu. Ngāporo and Autapu rapids can provide plenty of excitement and perhaps a cool dip on a hot day.
More exotic trees and farmland indicate you are getting close to Pīpīriki. Pass an eel weir on your left, shoot the Paparoa rapid and you will see the boat ramp below Pīpīriki village up ahead.
Fees are charged per person, per night to stay in huts or campsites on the Whanganui Journey. There are no fees for entry into the Whanganui National Park.
In the Great Walks season huts and campsites must be booked in advance. Fees are paid at the time of booking.
Outside the Great Walks season huts and campsites are first come, first served. Fees are paid with a Backcountry Hut Pass or Hut Tickets.
Hut fees
In the Great Walks season (1 October – 30 April)
New Zealand citizens and those ordinarily resident in New Zealand*:
- Adult (18+ years): $35 per person, per night
- Child (5 to 17 years): $18 per person, per night
- Infant (1 to 4 years): Free
International visitors:
- Adult (18+ years): $35 per person, per night
- Child (17 years and under): $18 per person, per night
Proof of eligibility is required for the New Zealand rate.
Outside the Great Walks season (1 May – 30 September)
For all visitors:
- Adult (18+ years): $25 per person, per night
- Child (17 years and under): $12.50 per person, per night
Campsite fees
In the Great Walks season (1 October – 30 April)
New Zealand citizens and those ordinarily resident in New Zealand*:
- Adult (18+ years): $19 per person, per night
- Child (5 to 17 years): $9 per person, per night
- Infant (0 to 4 years): Free
International visitors:
- Adult (18+ years): $19 per person, per night
- Child (5 to 17 years): $9 per person, per night
Proof of eligibility is required for the New Zealand rate.
Outside the Great Walks season (1 May – 30 September)
For all visitors:
- Adult (18+ years): $12 per person, per night
- Child (5 to 17 years): $6 per person, per night
Bookings
Bookings are open for the 2024/25 season.
This year we have combined our Great Walks and huts and campsites booking systems. You only need a single account to book the Great Walks and all other accommodation.
If you don’t already have an account on the existing huts and campsites booking system you will need to create a new log in and account at DOC booking services.
You need to book huts and/or campsites if you're doing the Whanganui Journey in the Great Walks season.
If you don’t have a valid booking for your stay, you may be charged a penalty, or turned away if the hut/campsite is full.
Bookings are not required outside the Great Walks season.
Book huts and campsites online or contact a DOC visitor centre or a local isite for personal assistance.
Location of the Whanganui Journey
Traditional entry or exit points for the Whanganui Journey are off SH4 at:
- Taumarunui
- Ōhinepane - access from Taumarunui
- Whakahoro - access from Raurimu or Ōwhango
- Pīpīriki access from Raetihi or Whanganui
Equipment hire, services, food and transport can be found in Taumarunui, Whanganui, Raetihi, Ōhakune and National Park Village.
To have a safe and enjoyable Whanganui Journey, you need to prepare and pack the right gear. You cannot turn back once you start.
Before you go
Take these important steps before you start the Whanganui Journey.
- Understand how to use your canoe. Make sure you know how to pack it, how to navigate rapids and what to do if you fall out. This will help keep you safe on the river.
- Carry a distress beacon. Once on the Whanganui Awa (river), there is no cell phone reception and your mobile will not work. There is only emergency communication available at John Coull Hut and Tīeke Marae/Kāinga.
Carrying a distress beacon means you can signal for help if you need it.
More about distress beacons.
You should also:
- check the weather before you go. Do not canoe if the river is flooding, rising, or predicted to flood.
Weather forecast for Whanganui National Park. - pack plenty of warm clothes and extra food. It can be very cold and you need to be ready to stay an extra night if the river rises.
What to take on the Whanganui Journey. - wear bright clothing, so you’re more visible to boats
- pack what you need to boil or treat water –the water at huts and campsites may not be treated and safe to drink
- avoid alcohol use or smoking, for your safety and out of respect for the river
- pack antihistamines if you’re allergic to wasps – they’re especially common from January to May.
When you're on the river
Stay safe by always wearing a life jacket. If you fall out, it could save your life.
Stay on the true right whenever possible. The true right is the right hand side when facing downstream.
Be aware of jet boats and know what to do. This is essential for a safe trip.
When a jet boat approaches:
- Move to the right hand side of the river, unless you’re already close to the other side. If you’re close to the left, stick to the left – don’t paddle across the path of the approaching boat
- Stop or back-paddle, so the jet boat can get away from you as quickly as possible
- Turn at right angle to the wake – this reduces how bumpy it will feel
Crafts travelling up river must give way to crafts travelling down the river. However, jet boats in rapids cannot slow down or stop.
Keep an eye on the weather and the river. If the river starts rising or is in flood, stay at your campground or hut until the river levels drop. You won’t be charged for staying an extra night due to high river levels. Rivers can rise overnight even if it’s not raining where you are, so tie your canoe up securely.
Leave enough time to reach your next hut or campsite in daylight. It is hard to find them in the dark. Allow extra time if it’s windy as canoeing into the wind can be slow and tiring.
More ways to stay safe in the outdoors.
Respect nature and culture
Many sites are of high cultural significance – please respect them. Avoid alcohol use while on the Awa or at Tīeke Marae/Kāinga.
Protect nature while on the Whanganui Journey by:
- camping only at designated camp sites
- taking all your rubbish away with you
- following all fire restrictions and not lighting any open fires.
- using the toilets provided
- keeping soap and detergents out of the water
- leaving dogs or any other animals at home
- not hunting within the river trench
- leaving native plants and animals alone – enjoy them from afar.
Huts on the Whanganui Journey don't have toilet paper. Remember to take this with you.
Equipment unique to Whanganui Journey
These items can be hired as a package from local suppliers.
- Life-jacket
- Kayak or Canadian canoe
- Paddle/s – include a spare
- Plastic drums or equivalent for storing food, dry clothes and personal equipment
- Dry bags
Optional
- Swimwear
- Sandals or aqua shoes for walking in water
Personal equipment
- Backpack – 40–60 litre size for multi-day hiking
- Waterproof/plastic pack liner
- Sleeping bag – 3–4 season
- First aid kit including blister treatment materials
- Survival kit including survival blanket, whistle, paper, pencil, high energy snack food
- Safety equipment relevant to the track and time of year, for example, map, compass
- Torch/flashlight and spare batteries
- Rubbish bag
- Booking confirmation and ID
- Earplugs for communal bunkrooms
- An emergency shelter, for if you are trapped by flooded rivers or bad weather
- A distress beacon
Cooking and food equipment
- Drink bottle – 1–2 litre capacity
- Eating and cooking utensils – knife, fork, spoon, plate, cup, pot/pan/billy, cleaning kit, tea towel. Check individual huts for what cooking facilities and lighting are provided.
- Matches or lighter in waterproof container
Toiletries
- Toiletries, including insect repellent, sunscreen, and personal medication, for example, antihistamine for allergy to wasp stings
- Use a toilet when you see one and be prepared with a backup toilet option
- Some of our Great Walk huts have sanitary bins but do come prepared if there isn't one. Find out more about Menstruation in the backcountry.
If camping
- Tent
- Sleeping mat
- Ground sheet
- Gas cooker
Clothing
- For multi-day walking you'll need at least one set of clothes to walk in and another dry set to change into at night.
- Tramping/hiking boots or firm footwear – should be comfortable and well broken in
- Socks – wool or polypropylene
- Shorts – quick dry material
- Shirt – wool or polypropylene
- Under layers, top and bottom – wool or polypropylene
- Mid-layers – wool or polar fleece
- Raincoat – waterproof, windproof with hood
- Overtrousers – wind and waterproof
- Warm hat and gloves
- Sunhat and sunglasses
- Extra socks, underwear, shirt/lightweight jersey
Optional
- Gaiters
- Lightweight shoes for inside the huts
Food
You cannot buy food on the track. Carry all the meals and snacks you will need, plus some spare, and a water bottle. We recommend food that is lightweight, fast cooking and high in energy value.
We do not provide emergency food in huts. You will need to carry emergency food supplies in case you are delayed by weather.
Store your food in a rodent-proof container or bag. This is especially important if you are camping
Nature and conservation
The land surrounding the river is only about one million years old. Formed of soft sandstone and mudstone (papa) from the ocean-bed, it has been eroded by water to form sharp ridges, deep gorges, sheer papa cliffs and waterfalls.
Over this land has grown a broadleaf-podocarp forest of rata, rewarewa, rimu, tawa, kamahi and kowhai with beech dominant on the ridge tops. Tree ferns and plants that cling to the steep riverbanks are very distinctive.
Bird species such as kereru (native pigeon), tiwaiwaka (fantail), tui, toutouwai (robin), riroriro (grey warbler) and miromiro (tomtit) are often seen and heard. The call of the brown kiwi can often be heard at night. The river is rich in eels, lamprey, species of galaxiid (a group of native fish species including whitebait and kokopu), koura (freshwater crayfish) and black flounder.
History and culture
Māori cultivated the sheltered terraces and built elaborate eel weirs along river channels where eels and lamprey were known to converge. Every bend of the river had kaitiaki (guardian) which controlled the mauri (life force) of that place. The mana (prestige) of a settlement depended upon the way in which food supplies and living areas were looked after for the benefit of the tribe and visitors.
Te Atihaunui, a Paparangi people, settled the valley from 1100 AD. In time the river became linked by a series of pa which were later called 'the plaited fibres of Hinengakau'.
The first major European influence arrived with missionaries in the 1840s. In 1891 a regular riverboat service began carrying passengers, mail and freight to the European settlers on the river between Taumarunui and Pipiriki and thriving tourist trade soon began between Mt Ruapehu and Wanganui.
The main riverboat trade ceased in the 1920s due to better roads, a main trunk railway and the development of other tourist attractions around the country, although riverboats were still operating in the late 1950s.
From May to September, there are often high river levels, very cold water and wet weather – only go if you are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.
Expect challenging conditions
The winter environment in Whanganui National Park is very cold and wet, with short daylight hours. The river level is much higher than in summer and the water is very cold.
Be totally self-sufficient and experienced
The Whanganui River journey should only be attempted out of the Great Walks season by people who are very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter.
You will need to be independent and self-sufficient, have a full understanding of the safety risks and be prepared for extremely cold conditions. Always carry a distress beacon.
Hut facilities are reduced
Gas cookers are not provided – you need to bring your own cooking stove. There are no hut rangers and only limited water. Huts are not stocked with firewood.
Fees and bookings
Outside of the Great Walks season, hut fees are reduced and bookings are not required. Full information can be found in the fees and booking section for this track.
Contacts
| Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre | |
|---|---|
| Phone | +64 7 892 3729 |
| tongarirovc@doc.govt.nz | |
| Address | Whakapapa Village State Highway 48 Mount Ruapehu 3083 |
| Hours | See visitor centre hours |
